How To Make A Kurti

ImageSummer is back with a vengeance. There is no relief from the scorching heat even inside, shopping being a far shot. At the same time you have run out of all your cool summer Kurtis either to repetition or the Washing Machine.Besides staying at home is simply boring, there is not much you can do with the frequent power cuts. No shopping, no electricity and no cool Kurtis; life couldn’t have been more mundane.

To beat the heat without going shopping and to keep you indulged, here is a tutorial to make your own Kurti! It’s time to take out your sewing machine and upgrade your sewing skills. The tutorial may look long but it is very easy, just follow the instructions and you will end up with your own masterpiece, which you can flaunt.

Note: The following steps are for making a medium size Kurti. However if you want to make a kurti of different size, the actual measurements can be filled in the following box and the formulas mentioned in the steps below. Also note that Pattern making is a onetime exercise for a garment; the Kurti pattern once created can be used repeatedly.

Measurements

Square Neck
Across Shoulder 14 inches
Chest 36 inches
Waist 28 inches
Hip 38 inches
Length of Top 25 inches

Materials Required

  1. Cotton Cloth: 1.35 meters with 42 inches width
  2. Brown Paper Sheet

Tools Required

  • Marking Pen
  • Chalk
  • Measuring tape
  • Foot Scale
  • French seam Curve
  • Hip Seam Curve
  • Scissors
  • Pins
  • Electric Iron
  • Polyester thread matching the fabric colour

 Pattern Making

Let us begin by creating a pattern.

Take a sheet of brown paper and cut it into 27 x 39 inches. Now fold the paper into half (width side). This will leave you with a sheet size of 13.5 x 39 inches.

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Mark a starting point on the corner as shown below:

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Now we will construct the various parts of the Kurti. Let’s begin with a draft for the Arm Hole and Chest Line.

Mark a point equal to half of the shoulder measurement from the starting point: 7 inches in our case  (for other sizes divide your Across Shoulder measurement by half)

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Next mark a point at a length of ¼ of Chest measurement minus 1 inch, horizontally from the starting point: 8 inches in this case (for other sizes divide your Chest measurement by 4)

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Join both the newly marked points as shown below:

ImageLet us move on and make the Chest line next. Divide your Chest measurements by ¼ and add 1.5 inches to it and make a new line as shown below. In our case this will be 10.5 inches.

ImageNow that you are getting pretty familiar with drafting let us tackle the length and waist lines. We will begin with the former.

Make a point for the full length of the Kurti at 25 inches from the starting point. This again could vary if you are making a bigger or smaller Kurti depending on the Top Length you want.

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Next comes the Waist Line: Make another mark for the waist point at 15 inches from the starting point (this is the standard length for waist).

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From the just marked waist point draw a waist line. It should measure ¼ of the waist measurement plus 2 inches: 9 inches in our case (divide your waist length by 4 and add 2 inches)

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Now to make the draft line for the hip we need to go back to the waist point and make the Hip point at 7 inches from the waist point (7 inches being the standard distance between waist and hip)

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Next make the Hip Line. This should be ¼ of Hip Measurement plus 1.5 inches:11 inches in our case

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Now going back to the Hip Point you had made a little earlier draw the Panel Line, which should be equal in length to the Hip Line you had marked a while back.

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With that last line you completed all your measurements. Now it is time to join the various lines in order to complete the final draft. In others words it is time to play connect the Dots!

Begin by joining the end points of the Chest line and Waist line with the help of a ruler.

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Next join the end points of the Waist line and the Hip line using the Hip Curve Scale.

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Follow by joining the end points of Hip line and Panel line with a ruler.

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Next it is time to work on your Kurti’s neck. Begin with the width of the neck by calculating 1/12 of Chest measurement plus ½ inch: 3.5 inches for our medium sized Kurti. Mark the new point at a distance of 3.5 inches (or the other figure you may have arrived at through the just mentioned calculation) from the starting point and name it A.

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Next comes the length of the neck. Take 1/6 of the Chest Measurement (6 inches in our case) and mark point B moving horizontally from the starting point.

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Now join points A and B with a ruler.

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Let us now work on the draft for the Shoulder Drop. Make a point at 1 inch from the top of the Arm Hole line and name it C. Follow by joining A and C

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Next comes a tricky part. We need to make drafts for two arm holes one for the front and one for the back. We will begin with the front side. Place the French Curve as shown so that its upper end begins at Point C and lower end touches the Chest Line, draw a curve along the scale for the arm hole.

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Now let us make the arm hole for the back side. Place the French curve such that its upper end begins at Point C as before and its lower end joins the end point of the Chest line. Now mark a line along the Curve. You can name it back to avoid confusion with the Front line.

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Lastly make the draft for the backside of the neck. Make a point at 1.5 inches from the starting point. Join this point with point A using your French Curve. And you are done with drafting.

ImageYour Draft for the Kurti is ready. It should look like this.

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Double check if you have marked all the lines and curves before cutting out the pattern. Now cut the pattern along the outer lines.

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Since we require different cuts for the front and the back, cut the pattern along the fold you had made in the beginning.

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Next cut the front neck and front arm hole on one of the pattern.

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Now you are left with two different patterns for the front and backside of the Kurti. The good thing being you can always use this pattern to make all your Kurtis as long as you don’t lose or put on too much weight or for the matter grow taller! Here are your Final two patterns.

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Next we are left with two major steps: cutting the Kurti and later stitching it. But in order to cut the Kurti you will need to begin by preparing the fabric by marking it with the help of the draft panels, you have created.

Cutting the Fabric

Begin by folding the cloth through its length with right side of the cloth facing each other. Now place the patterns (both back and front) such that their ends are aligned with the folded edge of the fabric as shown:

ImageNow, mark the outline of the cut pattern over the fabric with chalk. This is where the seam will be put later, it is also called the sewing line.

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Next draw another line ½ inch away from the sewing line. You will be later cutting the cloth along this line.Image

Repeat the process also for the other (the back) pattern too.

Now cut both the patterns along the outer line you had marked for cutting.Image

There are two parts that need to be taken care of while making a Kurti the Neck and the Arm Hole. We will begin by making the Facing for the front neck.

Open the folded cloth with the front pattern. And measure the length and width of the neck. We got the figures 6.5 inches for length and 6 inches for width.ImageNext take some fresh fabric and fold it keeping the right side facing each other (the front panel and the new fabric) and mark 6.5 inches along the fold and 3 inches for width (half of the measured width). Having marked the points join them with the help of a ruler. The figures 6.5 and 3 inches are the measurements from the step prior to this one.Image

Mark another point 1.5 inches away from the seam allowance (the just drawn line) and make a set of parallel lines.

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Next cut along both the outer lines.ImageAnd your facing is readyImage

Follow the same process for the back neck. At the end of which you will be left with a similar back neck as shown below:Image

Having finished with both the front and back neck, we now move on to the Arm hole.

Place the front and back panels of the Kurti on a table so that the shoulder lines of front and back meet overlapping by ½ inch as shown below:Image

Take a fresh piece of fabric big enough to cover the arm hole and place it flat under the front and back panel. Next make a line along the arm hole on the fresh piece of cloth.Image

Now make another line on the fresh fabric at a length of 1.5 inches away.Image

Cut the fabric along both the lines, and you are ready with the facing for one arm hole.Image

Next we need to make the facing for the second arm hole. Take a fresh piece of cloth and place it below the arm facing you just made. Make sure that the right sides of the fabrics are facing each other.Image

Mark along the outline of the facing on the new cloth. Then simply cut the second arm hole along the outlines.Image

Now that you have the facing for the neck and arm holes, it is time for the final phase, which is stitching.

Stitching The Kurti

Place the neck facing for the front and back respectively over the neck cut of the main fabric panels. Make sure that the right side of the fabric is facing each other.Image

Use sewing pins to ensure that they remain in place. Also ensure that the edge of the facing and neckline are placed neatly together.Image

Stitch the facing and the Kurti panels together for the front and the back. The stitching should be done ¼ inch away from the edge. While doing so keep in mind that the seam should be straight. (Using ¼ seam foot helps to improve the finishing.)Image

Next place a cut at both ends of the neckline as shown below. The cut needs to remain within the stitch line.Image

Next turn the facing along the stitch line and neatly fold it towards the wrong side of the cloth.Image

Iron the facing and the fold it half an inch on the wrong side of the fabric. Again use pins to ensure that the facing remains in place. (You can use a Dry Iron for this purpose as they are quick and easy to handleImage

For the Back neckline place small cuts, one inch apart along the back facing. Ensure like before that the cuts remain within the stitch line. This will help you to fold the facing smoothly.Image

Turn the facing along the stitch line and neatly fold it towards the wrong side of the fabric.Image

Now iron the facing and fold it half an inch on the wrong side of the fabric. Use pins to secure it in place. (Again using a Dry Iron will make the process faster)Image

Hem the facing folded inside for the front neckline.ImageNext match both the shoulder lines of the front and back panel and place pins to ensure that they stay in place.Image

Machine Stitch the shoulder lines at distance of ½ inch away from the edge of the fabric.Image

Neatly fold back neckline facing and hem it carefully to give a neat finish to the neckline.

Next place the facing made for the arm hole on the kurti as shown in the picture. The right side of the fabrics should face each other. Use pins to secure the fabrics in place.Image

Machine stitch the facing and the kurti panel at ¼ inches away from the edge. Follow it by placing small cuts on inch apart ensuring that the cuts remain within the stitched line. This again will help in folding back the facing smoothly.Image

Turn the facing along the stitch line and neatly fold it towards the wrong side of the fabric like you had done before for the neckline. Similarly iron the arm hole facing and fold it half an inch on the wrong side of the fabric. Use pins to secure.Image

Follow the same steps for the other arm hole.

Once the facings of both the arm holes are fixed, place the kurti panels together with the right side of the fabric facing each other. And machine stitch on both sides of the Kurti along the stitch line.Image

ImageFinally fold the bottom edge of the Kurti and iron. Ensure that after folding, the length of the Kurti remains at 25 inches evenly. After which machine stitch the bottom fold.

Ta-Da! your Kurti is ready. Time to go around town flaunting not just the beautiful Kurti but your Sewing Skills too.

60 thoughts on “How To Make A Kurti

  1. Could I purchase a tailoring book for learning by usha international?From where? Kurti wss very easy to learn step by step but I couldn’t save the lesson.

    Like

  2. superb and excellent method of teaching. so nicely each n every point is explained to make a kurti. I wish u should start your teaching centres also every where, specially in Dwarka, Delhi. I wud love to join.

    Like

    • Thank you for the feedback. We do have a few sewing schools around Delhi. We will inform you when we open one in Dwarka, in the meantime enjoy the online tutorials.

      Like

  3. Very very nice. The explanation is very simple and easy to understand. Looking forward to kurtis with sleeves as well. I have two questions. can u please share a couple of places in bangalore where the design book is available. Secondly, do have any teaching centres in bangalore as well. It would be great if you could share details. thanks so much.

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  4. This is so brilliant, have been on the search to find a good sewing instructor, just wrote to you on the email mentioned above and live in Bangalore. In the meanwhile, will try this tutorial and give you my feedback if any, and please post more such. Thanks again.

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  5. Explanation is helpful…but wat made d whole process of understanding easier were d picture perfect photos…thank u for d post…n can i get details of ur Bangalore branch schools in case if u ve any…

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  6. Hello mm
    thnk for the so easy steps to sew a kurti.
    but I want to know that why you add 2 inches to 1/4 of waist and 1.5 inches to 1/4 of hip. I am very confused about that. because my kurti became a little loose.
    please explain it more.
    I am waiting for your reply

    Like

  7. Loved both your posts, this one as well as the little girl dress one. Just perfect!!
    Definitely the best available on the net. Would request you to do one on sleeve.

    Like

  8. Pingback: DIY : Easy to make Dresses | Stitching Mall

  9. Hi your tutorials are very easy to follow. May I know where in Mumbai can I get you book. Can you please show tutorials for children’s dresses. Thanks in advance. Regards Emy

    Liked by 1 person

    • Dear Babitha, Thank you for writing to us. 1/4th remains constant irrespective of the size. Further addition or subtraction to it is dependent on how tight or loose you want the kurti to be. Average being the minus 1 inch rule stated above. Thanks & Regards Team Usha

      Like

  10. hi…nice information by u.. i have a problem with c-cut kurti..i want to know how to give c shape at the bottom of kurti n give it a nice finishing..plss give me ur suggestions.plss reply me fast..

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  11. would you consider a short online course on how to take measurements, make simple pants or how to use a simple sewing machine. Thanks so much for considering my request

    Like

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